Sagada is the "it" place

Big caves, big falls, big mountains, big everything… Sagada is one big adventure for city dwellers like me. But the metro habits of sight-seeing, shopping and dinning are things not to be belittled in Sagada. The town is not a commercialized place – thank God! You won’t find gaudy looking fast food outlets, expensive shops, fancy restaurants or banks here. But still, Sagada is the “it” place in these remote region of the Cordillera Mountain ranges.

After scrubbing off all the dirt from the long hike in Bomod-ok Falls, some friends and I hit the streets of the town to find fab souvenirs and take pictures of the town’s landmarks. Unfortunately, I wasn’t able to get good photos since I ran our of batteries & my camera won’t flash anymore… that’s why I’m borrowing photos from fellow Sagada travelers to show you some of the places I crashed into.

St. Mary’s Church

You wouldn’t miss this prominent structure that is visible from town proper. Situated within the Mission Compound, St. Mary’s is actually an Episcopal Church. Also found within the compound are St. Mary's School, the town cemetery, Calvary and the alleged bottomless pit of Kingkitongan. It is also in St. Mary’s wherein my friends and I met Dominic – our fury friend living within the vicinity of the church. He would follow us wherever we would go. Dominic does not beg for alms or food - he is actually an adorable sheep! It’s quite amazing - my first time to see and touch a live sheep – and it happened here in Sagada.

Souvenirs and Pasalubong

I bought a couple of shirts and wooden key chains as pasalubong from a side store near the Sagada Hospital. But for travelers with taste for better native stuff, the Sagada Weaving Store is the place for you. While shopping, you can witness an actual demonstration of old-fashioned weaving. Take note though, Sagadans don’t like to have their pictures taken. To them, having their photographs taken is tantamount to losing a part of their soul. So don’t get offended when they refuse to be photographed while weaving.

A grand feast
A celebration is just fitted to conclude our Sagada voyage. So we have decided to have our final dinner at one of the town’s prominent hotel/resto – a European Inn near the town hall. We had such a grand feast – a banquet of fresh vegetables, pasta, imported cheese and bread, exotic dips, roasted beef and wine. To continue our merry-making, we decided to buy additional drinks from a local store and brought it to our rooms after the sumptuous dinner we had.

We had all the reasons to be merry – we have enjoyed our moments in Sagada to the fullest!

I know there are still places left unexplored during this visit. Nevertheless, I know, one day I will be back and will not fail to visit these spots that I have missed:

The Kiltepan Rice Terraces are arguably the most extensive found in Sagada. The name was derived from the three bounding barangays: KIlong, TeTEP-an, and ANtadao. Though I managed to take a picture of this valley, it’s another great feat if I could trek the terraces the next time I visit.


The Echo Valley Hanging Coffins takes a little bit of adventurous spirit to be able to reach it. Hidden in the dense foliage of the valley, the hanging coffins are "hanged" from the limestone cliff using slabs driven into the rocks. Again, pictures where only taken and I promise not to miss this place again when I get back.


Visitors may follow the underground river in Latang upstream leading to Bokong waterfalls (or “small falls”). There are three natural diving spots - the highest of which require for the diver to run and jump far enough over some bushes to be able to reach the pool below. It’s much easier to reach the small falls compared to the big falls in Banga-an.

I should also visit Lake Danum located on the outskirts of Sagada. On the road going to the neighboring town of Besao, you can already take a glimpse of this dying lake.

And lastly, Mount Ampakaw – the tallest mountain in Sagada; locals say that this is an ideal picnic place during the months of April and May when the summer sun is pleasant and the blackberries are ripe for picking. Can't wait for that to happend. See you next time, Mt. Ampakaw!

That concludes my Sagada Blog series. Well, it’s only the beginning, there’s so much more places that I would be sharing and blogging about. So just hang on…

The Grandeur of Bomod-ok Falls

Big Falls
Originally uploaded by RyanG.

Let's have a picnic at Bomod-ok Falls!

After taking our breakfast from a local pancake house within the Sagada town proper, our group decided to embark on our next target, the Bomod-ok Falls. Bringing along our packed lunch, bathing suits and towels, we rented a jeepney inclusive of a tour guide that will bring us approximately five kilometers away in the town of Banga-an, where the falls, popularly known as "Big Falls" because of its enormous size, is located.

It took our group almost two hour to trek down the mountain (with a height equivalent to two-28 storey buildings) and hike through the rice fields. Hearing the sound of flowing water as we approach our destination is like sweet music to our ears. From afar, we could already see traces of mist that was carried by the strong air current through the mountains covering Big Falls.

The grandeur of Bomod-ok Falls - what a site to behold! Enclosed by two mountains, the falls is approximately 300-ft. high. No one among us dared to go to the pool directly beneath the falls, except for my friend, Dexter, who actually went up to the mid level and jumped off straight into the bottomless basin. It was such a crazy act - nevertheless, it was an unforgettable experience for Dexter.



There was a smaller pool surrounded by large rocks connecting the fall's basin with the rapid rivers flowing down through the other parts of the Banga-an valley. In both case, they have viciously frigid running water.



We had a pleasant time bathing, eating our lunch, and relaxing until we started our hike back. I was also surprised to see young Sagada, probably aged 9 to 12, swimming and diving in Bomod-ok. The falls is one big playground for these kids, which I quite envy because you'll never have this kind of fun and access to such great wonder back in the city (or anywhere near Manila even).

Walking and climbing back to Banga-an is yet another arduous task. We have no choice since our jeepney taking us back to the Sagada is waiting for us up there.

Before entering the town proper, we stopped by the Echo Valley for some drinks and pictures amidst the exotic flowers of the garden. We decided not to go up to the Hanging Coffins also located at Echo Valley since we were all beat from our Big Falls trudge.

This was our last afternoon in Sagada. We shall be leaving for Baguio the next morning. But I have still time for one more exploit before the sun goes down - souvenir-hunting, Sagada style!

Experiencing Sumaging cave is like cheating death

The Sumaging cave, aptly nicknamed as the Big Cave for its enormous size and unimaginable depth, is one of Sagada's main attractions. Travelers wishing to explore these magnificent natural structures would need the assistance of licensed guides from the local municipality equipped with lanterns and ropes. Trust me, these experienced individuals are necessary companions for exploring this cave.

Sumaging Cave
Originally uploaded by RyanG.

Upon entering, explorers have to walk down a steep and slippery path all the way to the cave's main chamber. Visitors will never fail to be awed by Sumaging's sheer size, fascinating rock formations, some of which are dubbed as the "King's Curtain", "Rice Granary", "Cauliflower", and "Dancing Hall", to name a few, all for their larger than life resemblances of the real things.

Going further inside the cave, a famous spot known as "The Tunnel" consists of a series of tiny passages, resembling giant rat holes, which would require explorers entering these parts of the cave to do limbo-like movements and much crawling to pass through.



Never mistake some holes to be just simple cracks filled with water; some of these have depths beyond measure. There will be some parts of the exploration that would require walking through watery chambers and climbing up a rope against a tall limestone wall.



Experiencing and going through Sumaging cave is like cheating death - you'll be grateful for surviving a dark, cold subterranean cave filled with bottomless pits and unknown elements. Definitely, it is an unforgettable experience that will be forever etched in my mind.

The Shangri-la of the North

Probably this has been the most remote and highest point I have ever reached in all my travels – literally. The climb up to Sagada is an intricate task, but the rewards you’ll find and experience in this place would be more than enough to compensate all those exhausting hours spent on travel.

Sagada
Originally uploaded by RyanG.

Sagada is definitely the Shangri-la of the North. Other adjectives used by visitors to describe Sagada range from breathtaking, magnificent, splendid, wonderful, awe-inspiring, remarkable, and so on… truly a world far from our own. But if I would be asked to say something about Sagada, I would simply say – exotic! There’s something about this place that has captured my heart and soul – you have to experience it for yourself to truly understand what I mean.



So, what’s in store for the visitors of Sagada?

Sagada features caves that can be explored, even by non-experts like me, with the aid of local guides; an interesting hike along an underground river; waterfalls and pools to cool off in after a day of exploring; lush greens and lovely flower and vegetable gardens; and a quiet serenity only found off the beaten path. The ancestors of the current residents practiced an unusual burial ritual by hanging and stacking coffins, hewed from tree trunks, in the limestone karst cliffs and caves near town.



Before we further continue our exploits, we checked-in at a local inn and rested for a while. We need to recharge for a challenging adventure ahead – we’ll venture into the underground caves of Sagada.

Caught in the Middle

Ifugao-Mt.Province Border
Originally uploaded by RyanG.

It's astonishing to know that somewhere in the heart of the mountains lies an oasis - a village called Bontoc, the capital of Mt. Province.

Our group left Banaue maybe past 10 in the morning, and lunch time is fast approaching. While taking some pictures at the Virgin Mary statue marking the Ifugao-Mt. Province border, I told my friends, "Where in the middle of the mountains shall we stop to have lunch? I'll be amaze if there's a Jollibee drive-tru nearby!"

Our driver, a native of Banaue and a seasoned "tour guide" for dim-witted travellers like us, told us not to be anxious, he'll bring us somewhere safe. We shall have a quick stop-over at Bontoc.

Bontoc is bounded on the south by Banaue, were we came from, and on the west by Sagada, the next and final pit stop of this trip. We’re literally caught in the middle of our travel destinations.

After a quick meal in a local eatery, our guide insisted that we visit the town museum to learn more about its history and culture. I’m glad we heed his invitation – Bontoc Museum offers tourist a showcase of the town’s best. We should be thankful for the people of Bontoc for putting up a wonderful display of preserved relics, mosaics and arts & crafts that narrate the noble story of the Bontoc people.




The town is calm and serene, its people live simple yet content lives. How I envy those children I saw bathing in the river as our jeepney passed by. Their resounding laughter made me think of probably how great it would have been if I have lived in this similar environment – away from the anxiety and fast-paced life in the city. But with the rapid developments occurring, Bontoc will soon become a city in the North. Hopefully, Bontoc will retain much of its old and simple charm.

Bontoc is but a glimpse of a more amazing journey ahead of us, I’m becoming anxious to reach Sagada.

Stairway to Heaven

If the Banaue Rice Terraces were laid end to end, they would stretch half way around the globe. The vertical distance between bottom and top rows exceeds the height of any of the world's tallest buildings - and when laid on top of the other, it would probably form a stairway to heaven.

Welcome to Banaue, a town in the mountainous province of Ifugao, North of the Philippines.

I am so "at peace" with this place, I managed to travel to this beautiful area twice - and still I long to go back. There's so much in store for travelers in Banaue - beware though - reaching anywhere around involves walking up or down mountain paths that at times can be hair-raising. But the gorgeous view will definitely lighten up the weighted spirit.

Banaue Rice Terraces
Originally uploaded by RyanG.

This is a souvenir shot taken during my first visit in 2001. There are 3 prominent viewpoints though, I think this one is from the "Engineer's Viewpoint". A local told us that this is the same view printed at the back of the P1,000 bill.

In another viewpoint overlooking the valley, my friends and I (it's definitely recommended to travel to Banaue with a handful of buddies!) met some diminutive Ifugao village elders who posed after collecting a small fee.



Not yet satisfied with the spectacular site, we need to experience the terraces to complete this venture - we went down the valley. Of course, with some instructions from the local folks, we were able to reach almost all levels until we landed at the bottom. We discovered a grand river which flows through the rice pads plotted along the terraces. The cool river water refreshed our weary legs - much as it gives life to the valley.



But here's a poignant observation - this place is deteriorating. The Banaue Rice Terraces are now facing erosion, and rice planting on its various levels is becoming scarce. A big reason for is that many of the tribespeople are abandoning their terraced farms to find jobs elsewhere. The face of poverty has reached the mountains - startling even one of mankind's greatest architectural achievements.

After the grueling climb to the surface, we went around a local tiangge to buy some souvenirs & native stuff. Soon, our group hopped on a rented jeepney that will bring us deeper into the mountainous region - next stop: Bontoc.

Bato sa Ilaw

Batulao Hills
Originally uploaded by RyanG.

The breathtaking Batulao Hills

I simply love this view which is seen from the top of the Caleruega Church in Nasugbu, Batangas. No wonder why Caleruega and Don Bosco are famous for its weddings - Batulao gives the perfect backdrop to a romantic hill-top exchange of vows.

When I'm in deep stress from all the work & anxiety of the big city, Batulao is the getaway I crave for. Sitting on the bench while looking over this majestic rolling hills relieve me of all worries & fears - maybe it's the crosswinds blowing, or just the tranquil effect of its lush greens and the mystic appeal of Batulao's twin peaks.

The name Batulao was derived from an annual phenomenon observed by the locals. From the town of Balayan, also in Batangas, one can see twin mountains to the east that appear quite distant from each other. But the same scene viewed from Batulao is curiously different. The same mountains seem to move closer. More fascinating is the fact that some time between December 22 and 28 every year, when the sun nestles right in between the two peaks. It creates a scene described by natives as "ilaw sa dalawang bato" (light in between two rocks) or "bato sa ilaw" (light in a rock), from which derived the term Batulao.

Going to Batulao can be done any time of the year. From Manila, travel by car or take a bus going to Nasugbu, Batangas. After passing by Tagaytay City and Alfonso in Cavite, some minutes later you will be passing beneath the "Welcome to Nasugbu" marker. A few meters more, make a left turn on the junction entering through the Evercrest golf course. Notice arrow markers pointing to "Caleruega" and "Don Bosco" as the Batulao Hills are best viewed on top of Caleruega, a Dominican community, or inside Don Bosco Spiritual Center, which is a retreat house run by the Salesians.

Probably I'll go back to Caleruega next month to visit Batulao - I need to be consoled - and hopefully I would catch a glimpse of "bato sa ilaw" - that would be another story to blog...

A traveler's log

It's better late than never...

I have decided write about the places that I have been to for the past 10 years. I know it's somehow late, but the stories of each place that I had a chance to visit are still lingering in the corners of my mind... my heart pounds while I write my stories as if I was back to those unforgettable spots.



I must admit that I have not traveled that much - and that these are common tourist destinations. But I have found a second home in each of these places, and I long to come back and re-live those great moments that I have spent.

You can never forget the feeling you felt inside upon seeing something new - and spectacular - for the first time ever in your life.

I hope I can able to blog all those wonderful memories of my travel across the beautiful islands of my country - the Philippines (and some bits travels across the miles). I also wish to have more chances to travel in the future and be able to blog it here...

As the saying goes:

"Wag maging dayuhan sa sarili mong bayan"

I hope with this modest sharing, someone, even a single soul, would ever consider visiting these places that I would be blogging about...

Sit back, relax and enjoy the journey...